Hedgerows, also called windbreaks or shelter-belts, once divided Island farms into a pattern of small fields. They provided shelter for livestock, protected houses and barns from winter winds and helped cool the buildings in the summer. The micro-climate in the fields was improved as the trees provided wind protection for the crops; the soil held heat and moisture and wind erosion was minimal. As farm mechanization increased the number of hedgerows decreased. Larger machines needed larger fields in which to maneuver . Soil erosion increased and important wildlife habitat corridors were lost as hedgerows were cut.

Many of the hedgerows which were not cut are old and collapsing. Old hedgerows can be revitalized and new hedgerows can be established. With good planning and the appropriate tree and shrub species a hedgerow can provide cover and food for birds and wildlife, be a source for fuel-wood and lumber, provide privacy, reduce road noise and be beautiful year round, in addition to the other benefits that hedgerows give to the land and the buildings on it.

An important factor to remember while designing and planting a hedgerow is that the effect will keep changing as the trees grow. A young hedgerow may cause snow to drop away from a driveway but as the trees mature snow may land directly on the driveway. Remember also, that the aim of a hedgerow is to reduce the velocity of the wind, letting it pass over and through the trees. A 50% density is ideal and can protect a field, orchard or building on the leeward side for a distance of up to ten to fifteen times the height of the trees. Planting shrubs with trees will create an even wall of foliage and branches from the ground up to sieve the wind.

Many species of trees and shrubs will grow well in hedgerows. Quick maturing species such as poplar, willow, red maple, and white birch can be planted with slower maturing white spruce, white ash and red oak. The fast growing species will provide protection for the other trees and shrubs and cover and food for birds. Once the slower maturing, longer living trees and shrubs are well established the pioneer species will begin to decline; they can be harvested for fuelwood or left to provide nesting sites for cavity-dwelling birds. If the trees and shrubs grow together and block too much wind, lower limbs can be pruned or some trees removed to keep the density between 40-60%.

Newly planted hedgerow at the Macphail Woods.

A single row of trees and shrubs can be effective but plantings of two and three rows are better. Choose native species when designing a hedgerow as they are adapted to the local climactic changes, provide food and cover for the bird and mammal population, are readily available and are beautiful. Ideally, windbreaks should be planted at right angles to the prevailing winds. In the winter the winds are generally from the north and northwest but in the summer the winds come from the south and southwest. Another design consideration when enclosing a field is access. Angle planting at entrances will slow the wind. Access also allows cold air to leave a field. If possible leave an opening about 50 feet (15 m) wide at the low end of the field.

A sunny hint for new hedgerows: Newly established hedgerows can sometimes be hard to see, especially from tractor seats. Plant a row of sunflower seeds when planting the trees and shrubs in the spring. The sunflowers will grow quickly and with their large leaves and bright yellow flowers they are easy to see. They will provide some wind protection, make passer-bys smile and provide food for birds.

The best time to plant is early spring, especially if using bare root stock. If you are planning ahead, prepare the site in the fall. Rows can be plowed, compost added, and the area mulched with straw, wood chips or eelgrass to provide winter cover, add organic material and keep weeds down. The earth will be easy to dig in the spring and the mulch can be used in between the rows to keep competition down. Or individual holes can be dug, planted and mulched with wood chips. It is important to control vegetative competition until the trees and shrubs are well established. The space between the rows can be mowed, mulched or tilled and mulched.

To revitalize an old hedgerow, plant a single or double row of trees and shrubs 15 feet (4 m) from existing trees, on the most protected and sunniest side possible. Do not plant between the existing trees unless there are large gaps. When the new trees are well established remove the old trees. Plant new trees and shrubs in the old line. A word of caution: Old hedgerow trees may have wire fencing embedded in them. They are often rotten in the middle and can be dangerous to remove.

Keys to Windbreak Plants (use any combination of species from appropriate categories):

Coniferous Trees

• White Spruce
• Black Spruce
• White Pine

Decidious Trees

• Red Oak
• Red Maple
• White Ash
• Pin Cherry
• Apple

Tall Shrubs

• Mountain Ash
• Sericeberry
• Red-berried Elder
• Wild Raisan
• Choke Cherry
• Willow
• Common Elder
• Speckled Alder

Low Shrubs

• Red-osier Dogwood
• Bayberry
• Wild Rose
• Sweetfern

Hedgerow and Buffer Zone Planting Program

The PEI Department of Environment, Energy and Forestry, in cooperation with the Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Aquaculture, has developed a program which provides assistance to landowners who want to establish hedgerows for soil conservation, stream bank stabilization, and windbreaks for buildings and livestock. The program is open to both farmers and other land owners. Follow this link for more.