How to Plant Trees and Shrubs
How to Plant Trees and Shrubs
Bare Root Stock
Bare root stock should be planted in spring before the leaves open or the new needles have started growing. When buying stock, time the purchase for when you have the time to plant. Sometimes this is impossible or impractical as when planting large numbers of trees or in case of poor weather. Plants can be held for awhile in the ground by "heeling-in".
Heeling-In. Choose an out of the way location, with some shade, where you can dig holes large enough to bury the roots. Bundles of trees and shrubs can be heeled-in together. Water well and mulch to keep the soil moist. If keeping plants heeled-in for more than a few days, be sure the soil is damp and covering the roots. Keep the plants in the ground until ready to plant out.
Never let the roots dry out. Soak bare root stock in buckets of water overnight before planting. Keep the trees and shrubs in the buckets of water as you check over the roots and while preparing holes and planting. Check the roots and prune any that are broken, split or scraped. Use sharp by-pass pruners to ensure a clean cut. Prune roots of small stock (under 12 inches 30 cm) to about 6 inches (15 cm). Larger trees and shrubs will need more root and a larger hole than smaller stock. Prune any roots that are circling the trunk, if they will not straighten. Keep roots wet: make a "slurry", a soupy mix of water and soil. Dip roots into it while getting ready to plant. The slurry will stick to the roots and keep them from drying out.
Dig a straight sided hole about 12 inches (30 cm) deep for every 8 inches (20 cm) of root depth. If possible, put the topsoil on a cloth or tarp to make refilling the hole easier. Dig a wide hole to allow unrestricted lateral root growth. Even small trees and shrubs will benefit from a 1-2 foot (30-60 cm) wide hole. All plants should have a hole at least twice as wide as the diameter of the root mass. Rough up the sides of the hole and place a mound of topsoil or compost at the bottom. Spread the roots over the mound. The plant should be at the same soil depth or slightly higher than it grew in the nursery (look for a colour change at the root collar). Fill in the hole and firmly tamp to remove any air pockets. Water deeply and mulch with a 3 inch (7.5 cm) layer of leaf mould or wood chips. Keep mulch 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) away from the stem to discourage damage from rodents during the winter.
If bare root stock is in leaf when it is planted, prune 30% of each branch, taking care not to prune the leader (main stem). This reduces the moisture loss from the plant and helps ensure survival. Small trees usually do not need to be staked but if size requires it, use two stakes and rubber tubing, hose or nylon stockings. Do not use wire or rope as they will cut into the stem and cause serious damage. Remove stakes and ties by the second growing season.
Container Stock
Timing is not quite as important for container grown seedlings as for bare root stock. Container stock can be successfully planted throughout the growing season. Container size is generally one litre and up. Hardwood seedlings in containers need special attention if planting out when growth is already well underway. Shade plantings are easier to maintain than plantings in full sun, which will need to be watered regularly and kept well mulched. Water the container plants well the day before planting. To remove the plant from the container, turn the container overwith the stem between your fingers. Give the container bottom a good rap with the palm of your hand and catch the root ball as it slides out. Be careful not to damage the stem. Prune any roots that are circling the trunk which might eventually girdle the tree. Using a screwdriver, pull some of the larger roots away from the root ball to help stimulate new growth.
Dig a hole with straight sides, about 8 inches (20 cm) deep for every 12 inches (30 cm) of container depth. If possible, put the topsoil on a cloth or tarp to make refilling the hole easier. Dig a wide hole, at least 2-3 times the container width to allow wider, unrestricted root growth. Rough up the sides of the hole and place some topsoil or compost on the bottom of the hole. The plant should be at the same soil depth as it was in the container. Fill in the rest of the hole and tamp well to remove air pockets. Water deeply and mulch with a 3 inch (7.5 cm) layer of leaf mould or wood chips. Keep mulch 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) away from the stem to discourage rodent damage during winter. Container stock will rarely need pruning, especially if the plants are young. Prune lightly for shape, if desired, or to remove damaged branches. Do not prune the central leader.
Transplanting From the Wild
When digging transplants from the wild, keep as much soil as possible around the roots. Bring a bucket of water or slurry if possible and something to wrap the plants in. Keep the roots moist and shaded. Trim roots if necessary and prune branches if the tree is in leaf. When collecting large numbers of small plants, dig them bare root and wrap 50-100 in a cloth or plastic bag with moist leaves or soil around the roots. This is an easy way to acquire large numbers of plants at little cost. Put them in a nursery bed and you will have excellent stock for planting in a year or two. The extra growing time adds height to the seedling and encourages the formation of a dense root mass. This will greatly increase the success of your final plantings. Ask the landowner's permission before digging plants and make sure to leave the site in good shape. Woods roads, ditches and old fields are good sources of species such as white spruce, white birch, red osier dogwood and willow. Digging from woodlands can rarely be done without damaging roots of existing trees. It can also result in unsatisfactory transplants and so is not recommended.
Trees and Shrubs Need:
- room to grow - look up before digging and do not plant under power lines
- the right soil - for example, very little grows in heavy clay, add compost and sand to break up clods. Have a soil test done before adding any fertilizers or amendments you may not need
- strong roots - with young plants, roots are more important than above-ground growth. The fine, absorbing roots are most important and also the most fragile
- water - regular and deep watering
- mulch - to retain moisture and discourage competition
- proper pruning - for both desired shape and strong growth



