Most seeds are best planted in the fall soon after collecting, while some prefer the spring. Plant seeds no deeper than two times their diameter. Small diameter seed can be broadcast and covered with a 50-50 mix of inland sand and sawdust, about 1/4 in. (6 mm) deep. For fall planting, wait until the ground is frozen and then cover the bed with a 4-6 in. (10-15 cm) mulch of eelgrass, leaf mould, chopped straw or pine needles to prevent repeated freezing and thawing. In the spring, remove most of the mulch and keep a close eye on the bed. The seedbed should be kept moist until the seeds have germinated and established roots. For both seeds and tender seedlings, use a watering rose or a special hose nozzle that spreads out the water. These most closely emulate natural rainfall.

STRATIFICATION BEDS:

Acorns and butternuts can be overwintered in boxes with 10 in. (25 cm) wooden sides. Over a three inch (7.6 cm) layer of sand, spread one layer of nuts. Cover with cardboard and top with another layer of sand and peat moss. Attach hardware cloth to the top of the frame, cover with a piece of plywood and mulch with 6 in. (15 cm) of eelgrass, straw or sawdust. Check regularly in the spring and plant in containers or beds when the seeds have begun to sprout. For the first two months after germination, apply water several times a week if it does not rain. After that, a thorough, weekly watering will usually be adequate. Deep watering promotes better root growth at lower soil levels.

Most seedlings need partial shade during the first summer to conserve moisture and escape excessive heat. The simplest is to make a frame to support snow fencing about 1 foot over the bed. You can also use laths at the same height anything that gives you about 50% shading. If the weather is especially wet and muggy, you should remove the shading to allow the beds to dry out faster. This helps avoid problems with fungi and bacteria. Seedlings growing in the wild can be dug, with the landowner's permission, from areas of future construction (houses or highways) and are usually quite abundant along 2-3 year old forest roads. Another good source is the strip of land that is mowed along highways if there is a nearby source of seed. Be sure to obtain permission from the Department of Transportation before removing seedlings from these areas. Move seedlings to beds for a few years to produce large, sturdy transplants. Always transplant in early spring before plants produce new growth, unless you are able to dig up and carry a substantial ball of earth around the roots. Young seedlings up to 2 ft. (60 cm) give best results. Deciduous seedlings should be marked in the fall with flagging tape (a different colour or code for each species) while they are still in leaf, since it is often difficult to identify leafless seedlings in the spring. Make sure the seedling has good form and avoid suckers that have grown up from a stump. Deciduous and coniferous trees can be transplanted bare root (without soil) or with a plug of soil. Treat the transplants the same as if you were moving seedlings to transplant beds.