In gardens and urban areas, fencing may not be necessary, though cats and dogs can become problems. In some rural areas it may be best to fence the nursery before planting, although we have stopped using fencing at Macphail Woods and have suffered little damage. A 4-6 ft. (1.2-1.8 m) fence will usually keep snowshoe hare from browsing twigs in winter. Fencing can be made of chicken wire, boards, slabs, snow fencing whatever is handy. Between the fencing and the actual planting beds, maintain a weed free strip. This will stop weeds that spread by underground stems from creeping into your nursery. Lay down newspaper and then a heavy mulch, or till the strip regularly. Your nursery may include one or more seed beds, potting area, transplant or container area, compost bins and watering system.

SEED BED

A good working size for all beds is 3 ft. (90 cm) wide by up to 20 ft. (6 m) long, with 18 in. (45 cm) paths. Mark out beds with string and use a spade to move soil from paths into beds, making the centre of each bed slightly higher than its edges. On heavy soil, beds should be 4 in. (10 cm) above paths; on well drained soil, 2 in. (5 cm); and on very sandy soils the beds need not be raised. Soil in beds should be firmed (but not compacted) using the back of a garden rake or a tamping board. Framing a raised bed with 8-10 in. (20-25 cm) wide planks or boards is more costly but offers several advantages. The bed is easier to weed; dries out more slowly along the edges; erodes less; and is more easily screened to keep out rodents.

POTTING AREA

This can include a shed for tools and working indoors when it rains, or be as simple as a large table at convenient working height. Whether planting sprouted seeds or year old seedlings into containers, a good soil mixture is important. No one formula will fit every situation, but here is a good general mix: 2 parts garden loam; 1 part compost or leaf mold; 1 part clean, coarse sand. The addition of pulverized rock phosphate and either granite dust or greensand (1 tablespoon of each per 2 litre container), will reduce the chance of nutrient deficiencies. Take a soil sample of the mix and then raise the pH to about 5.5. About 6 lb. (2.7 kg) of dolomitic limestone will raise the pH of 1 cu. yd. (.77 cu.m) of mix 1 unit (e.g., 5.0 to 6.0).

TRANSPLANT OR CONTAINER AREA

Whichever method or combination of methods you choose, the area will be at least four times the size of the seedling area. Both systems have advantages. Transplants in beds are easier to water; require less water; have better drainage; can be grown in a smaller area; and suffer less loss from winter damage. Container grown plants can be planted out throughout the spring, summer and fall. This is especially important if you will be doing plantings around certain events that take place outside of early spring and allows you to spread the work over a longer period. In addition, plants in containers often experience better growth and suffer less setback when transplanted. Containers can be anything you find locally, preferably for free. This system works well: use wooden grape crates (free from most grocery stores) to hold 12 2-litre or 24 1-litre milk cartons. Cut off tops and use a knife to make 1/2 in. (12 mm) drainage holes in bottoms of cartons.

COMPOST BINS

A three bin system, using wire fencing or boards for sides, will give you room for all the composting materials you collect. It is also easy to aerate the material as you periodically move it from one bin to the next. All dimensions of each section should be about 4 ft. (1.2 m).

WATERING SYSTEM

However you obtain it, water must be clean and adequate to ensure good growing conditions. A convenient way to transport large quantities is in 45-gallon (205-litre) food grade plastic barrels. These can be purchased from fish packing plants and beverage companies.