The ideal soil for a nursery site is a light, loamy sand with plenty of organic matter. Take samples from several areas on the site and test for nutrients, pH and organic matter. The provincial Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry (see Resources) can instruct you in this and charges a nominal fee for the test. Once you know the condition of your soil, begin preparing the site. If the nursery will occupy part of your garden, the work may already be done. Small plots in urban areas can be worked with hand labour and/or a rototiller. Use a spade to strip off the sod, which should be piled together and allowed to slowly decompose. The ground should be worked as deeply as possible, using a spade and a garden fork. To improve drainage and add nutrients, add well rotted manure and compost if available.

Most of our beds at Macphail Woods are roughly made up of 1/4 part well rotted manure, 1/3 part topsoil, 1/3 part potato compost or some other low nutrient organic matter, 1/6 part leaf mould. We might also add seaweed, mussel mud or other organic matter on hand at the time. Any natural soil amendment that may be available in your area should not be overlooked. Crab and lobster shells, fishmeal and bonemeal are excellent sources of nutrients. In the spring, spread dolomitic limestone to bring the pH up to about 5.5, then use a garden fork or rototiller to prepare the soil for planting.

For larger nurseries in rural areas, you may decide to hire a nearby farmer to prepare the site, making use of his/her expertise. Fall plowing should be followed by spreading manure or compost. This can be disced in while the soil is still workable. Spread limestone in the spring, then harrow several times or use a rototiller.

THE BUCKWHEAT METHOD:

If your site is very weedy and lacks nutrients and organic matter, prepare the site and plant buckwheat in the spring. When this crop is in the flower stage, turn it under and plant more buckwheat. When it reaches the flower stage, turn it under and plant winter rye. Next spring, disc in the winter rye and harrow or rototill. The soil will be almost weed free with improved levels of nutrients and organic matter. Some old fields may have developed a hard pan, a compacted area just below plowing depth that can hamper drainage. A chisel plow, designed to break up the subsoil and disturb the surface as little as possible, can solve this problem. It should be noted that even rototilling too often at the same depth creates a hard pan. Tillers can be used for initial preparation of the site and seedbeds, but should not be used more than absolutely necessary. Excess tillage can destroy the soil texture that you have worked so hard to achieve.