Almost any site is suitable for a small, short-term nursery, including a section of backyard garden. More care should be taken in selecting a site for a larger, permanent nursery. Here are some tips on what to look for and what to avoid.

ACCESS

A road that is accessible during the entire growing season is almost a necessity, especially if you have to haul water or soil amendments (manure, compost, etc.) very far. This means siting the nursery beside a road or a well maintained driveway. The closer a nursery is to the centre of your group's operations, the better. Volunteers will be more likely to help out if they don't have to drive long distances to get to the site. Accessibility has to be balanced against the chance of vandalism. Your common sense and knowledge of the area will be the best guides.

WATER

No matter how much rain falls during the year, there are times when having water on site will make or break a crop of trees. Seeds need moisture to germinate, while a dry spell can ruin newly transplanted trees. Running water is the easiest solution whether from a town system or well, or pumped from a nearby pond. If those are not available, you will have to haul water.

SOIL

Dramatically changing soil is a challenge, so start off with the best you can find. When selecting a site, consider the following: what has the site been used for during the past five years? Avoid land that was continuously cropped or had heavy applications of pesticides. what is now growing on the site? Alders will have added nutrients but can take quite a while to eradicate. Couch grass (also known as quack or witch grass) and thistles are hard to get rid of without losing a year of growing time. Again, if all other aspects of the site are ideal, it may be worth the effort. what is the drainage like? Building raised beds will help overcome drainage problems, but only to a degree. Make sure there is no standing water and avoid heavy clay soils.

SITE CHARACTERISTICS

The site should be flat or slightly sloping, with a southern or south western exposure. Light shade is acceptable, but the nursery must receive sun for most of the day. Avoid "frost pockets" that receive frosts earlier than surrounding areas. Someone who knows the area will probably be the best source of information on this subject.

SHELTER

Windbreaks that slow prevailing winds can be trees or even buildings. If there are no windbreaks, trees and shrubs can be planted for this purpose. Fencing made from slabs or boards can slow wind and keep out wildlife at the same time. Proper windbreaks reduce wind speed, allowing 50% permeability. Under normal conditions, a windbreak or fence 10 ft. (3 m) on the windward side of the nursery will protect plants up to 100 ft. (30 m) away. With this information, you can now decide what compromises must be made and choose the best site available in your area.